Spirits of Southeast Asia: Vietnam
- Chris Chai
- 7 days ago
- 7 min read
Vietnam is one of the strongest agricultural powerhouses in Southeast Asia, with some of its commodity outputs ranking the country among the world's top ten. It's a remarkable feat, given that Vietnam was struggling to feed itself just a couple of decades back as a result of constant power struggles.
Nurtured by the Mekong Delta and assisted by strong agricultural policies, rice became one of the country's biggest exports. Rice is a staple part of Vietnamese cuisine, used in everything from congee and vermicelli noodles (phở) to rice paper rolls and desserts.
When it comes to local alcohol, rice holds similar importance. Most alcoholic beverages in Vietnam are rice-based, and are commonly made during celebrations and rituals, as they're an essential part of the culture of numerous ethnic groups in the country.
One thing to note when understanding Vietnamese spirits is that the term "rượu" is a catchall term for alcohol.
Illicit Liquor: Rượu Đế and Rượu Quốc Lủi
Rượu Đế is a rice spirit associated with the Mekong Delta of southwestern Vietnam. It is usually made from either rice or glutinous rice and was once illicitly produced. The name hints to this history: the "đế" is a reference to đế (Kans) grass, a type of perennial grass that can grow up to 3m tall. During the French colonization of Vietnam (1858-1954), alcohol production was monopolized by the government and taxed heavily. To avoid taxation, local illicit distillers would hide their equipment in huts built within Kans grass fields.
Rượu Quốc Lủi is similar to Rượu Đế, but made in northern Vietnam. Rượu Quốc Lủi roughly translates to "wine hidden from the state." During Vietnam’s subsidy era (thời bao cấp) from 1975 to 1986, there was a monopoly on alcohol production. These "rượu quốc doanh" (state-produced liquor/wine) were sold using state-sanctioned coupons. The term "quốc lủi" (“hide from the state”) was coined by small distillers to differentiate themselves from state-produced rice liquor.
The rice spirit is made from rice fermented by men rượu, a type of fermentation starter similar to Chinese qu. This type of rice yeast is common in Southeast Asia, as the practice is likely influenced by neighboring Chinese immigrants. Once fermented, the resulting wine is distilled to increase the alcohol level (to 30-45% ABV). While commercial brands use stainless steel column stills for distillation, traditional Rượu Đế and Rượu Quốc Lủi makers use either small stainless steel or clay pot stills for small-scale production.
Both spirits are synonymous with celebrations and rituals, be it weddings or ancestor worship. The traditional etiquette of enjoying the drinks during gatherings involves the host pouring for the guests in small glasses as a gesture of hospitality. The drink – and by extension, the etiquette – symbolize blessing, gratitude, and respect.
Rượu Nếp
Rượu Nếp refers specifically to glutinous rice spirit. There are several distinct types of Rượu Nếp, defined by the type of glutinous rice. Some notable ones include:
Rượu Nếp Cái Hoa Vàng
Made from Vietnam's prized Golden Flower Pistil glutinous rice (nếp cái hoa vàng), this style is known for its subtle aromatic fragrance and is clear to mild yellow in color. This variety of glutinous rice is commonly grown in the northern and central provinces of Vietnam, resulting in the prevalence of glutinous rice in the region's Rượu Nếp.
Rượu Nếp Cẩm
Made from purple glutinous rice (nếp cẩm), this is more a rice wine than a spirit. However, some brewers may add some rice spirit into the final brew, fortifying it to increase the shelf life. The drink is nutty and sweet with subtle acidity, displaying flavors similar to semi-sweet port. Purple glutinous rice is commonly grown in the northwestern highlands of Vietnam, and its Vietnamese name "nếp cẩm" translates to "brilliant/luxurious glutinous rice."
Rượu Nếp Than
Made from black glutinous rice (nếp than) grown in the southern Mekong Delta. This rice wine is also occasionally fortified with rice spirit. In terms of flavor, Rượu Nếp Than is sweeter than most Rượu Nếp Cẩm and has rich, earthy flavors not unlike those of aged sweet sherry. "Nep than" translates to "charcoal rice," referring to the jet black rice grains.
Rượu Nếp Quýt Đạ Tẻh and Rượu Đòng Đòng Nếp Quýt
Made with Đạ Tẻh glutinous rice, this rice spirit is exclusively produced in the Đạ Tẻh province. This rice variety originated from the north and was initially farmed by the Tày and Nùng people. Today, this variety is primarily grown in An Nhơn commune within Đạ Tẻh. The spirit is known to have a mild rice sweetness.
Rượu Đòng Đòng Nếp Quýt is a variation of Rượu Nếp Quýt Đạ Tẻh, in which young rice stalks are infused in the rice spirits to impart herbal and grassy notes. "Nếp Quýt" translates to "tangerine/full rice," describing the round and plump appearance of the rice grain.
Rượu Ngô
Rượu Ngô is made from corn, and is a spirit synonymous with the H'mong and Dao people of the northern highlands, particularly in Bắc Hà, Lào Cai. As this drink is still produced traditionally, Rượu Ngô of the Bắc Hà adhere to several key practices.
First, the fermentation starter is made using hồng mi seeds (finger millet) mixed with forest herbs. This mixture is left to dry before being ground into powder and mixed with cooked corn kernels to begin fermentation. The corn is left to ferment for up to a week before distillation can take place.
The Hmong and Dao people use traditional wooden stills with a wok set underneath to boil the fermented brew. As the fermented mash boils over charcoal fires, the alcoholic vapor is collected through a bamboo tube connected to the wooden still. The resulting liquor is kept in clay jars for ageing before consumption.
Traditionally, Rượu Ngô is served in bowls instead of cups, and enjoyed over a meal as a part of daily Hmong and Dao life. Besides Lào Cai, Rượu Ngô is also produced in Hà Giang province, but is fermented using yeast made from forest herbs instead of millet.
Notable mention: Rượu Thuốc
Rượu Thuốc is a folk medicinal spirit infused with herbs or animals. Some Vietnamese enjoy Rượu Thuốc as a type of medicinal tonic meant to improve overall health and virility. Most of these spirits are similar to medicinal tincture or liquor of the West, using medical plants like Vietnamese ginseng and wild banana seeds (Chuối Hột) for infusion.
Animal infusions are especially popular, especially among Vietnamese men. This variation of Rượu Thuốc can be made from whole animals such as snakes, seahorses, scorpions, or other animal parts. Most people who consume animal-infused Rượu Thuốc believe it could improve one's virility, and alleviate or prevent common ailments.
Regional Rượu
In addition to major Vietnamese spirits, there are also regional spirits unique to certain provinces. Some of these are protected as national treasures and showcase the unique variations of spirits the country has to offer.
Rượu Mẫu Sơn
Unique to the Dao people of Lang Son province, northeastern Vietnam. Fermented from glutinous rice using wild yeast derived from local forest herbs, it’s considered a medicinal spirit that’s made with over 30 different botanicals. The key to Rượu Mẫu Sơn is the spring water of Mount Mẫu Sơn, which has a low mineral content that's ideal for producing soft and delicate spirits. Rượu Mẫu Sơn is said to be a smooth spirit, exuding subtle herbal notes and rice fragrance.
Rượu Bàu Đá
Hailing from the Cù Lâm village in Bình Định, central Vietnam, Rượu Bàu Đá – named after its water source, the Bàu Đá pond – is made from glutinous rice. The spirit is currently made using well water from the same village, as the pond has long dried out. The spirit is often distilled in small batches using traditional clay pot stills fired by wood fire. Its flavors are said to be bold, with a noticeable sweetness of rice wine.
Rượu Đế Gò Đen
This rice spirit comes from Long An province, southern Vietnam. Rượu Đế Gò Đen can be made from either rice or glutinous rice, but must be made using water from the Gò Đen region. Unlike most rượu, the spirit is mainly made with the rice bran intact. Although the drink exists as a cottage industry (made by home brewers), an association for Rượu Đế Gò Đen was established to safeguard the drink's quality and heritage.
Rượu Phú Lễ
Originating in Bến Tre, southern Vietnam, this glutinous rice spirit is fermented using their unique yeast ball made from 36 medicinal herbs and spices as well as local well water that’s fed by an underground spring. Although Rượu Phú Lễ's production has modernized, it’s still made in small batches using direct fire. The drink is said to be rich and bold, with flavors intensified by the herbal yeast.
Rượu Xuân Thạnh
This glutinous rice spirit is made in Tra Vinh, southern Vietnam, and in our opinion, is one of the most complex spirits produced in the country. Not many details are publicly known about Rượu Xuân Thạnh, as the recipes are closely guarded by the few remaining families within the same clan. All we know is that it’s made using 14 types of starters, combining 48 types of mold strains and 35 types of heirloom yeast unique to the clan. The drink is said to be bold and intense, often bottled at high strength (up to 60% ABV).
Rượu Kim Sơn
Rượu Kim Sơn comes from Ninh Bình in the north. The spirit is made from Golden Flower Pistil glutinous rice which is unique to Vietnam. The rice is usually unpolished, leaving the bran intact. Due to the region's proximity to China's border, the starter is similar to the medicinal yeast balls used in some Chinese baijiu. The production also only permits the usage of local well water. As Rượu Kim Sơn is usually distilled to a higher alcohol concentration, it’s a common choice for infusion.
Rượu Làng Vân
Made in Bắc Ninh province, northern Vietnam, Rượu Làng Vân is another spirit made with Golden Flower Pistil. The starter contains 36 different native medical herbs – most of them known only to the families that produce the drink. The production methods are a closely guarded secret, passed down to the sons within Vân village. As per tradition, Rượu Làng Vân makers take an oath every fourth day of the Lunar New Year to keep the knowledge of Rượu Làng Vân production within the village.
