Amaro: The Italian Bitter Drink

Honestly, most people’s first encounter with amaro isn’t all that sophisticated. For the normies, it’s usually a shot of Jägermeister at a club, or spotting a bright red bottle of Campari or Aperol on any cocktail bar shelf. For anyone dragged into bartender culture, it’s probably Fernet-Branca—a rite of passage that’s less about flavor and more about bartender machismo (the same people who think a Ramos Gin Fizz is a casual shift drink). Fernet even built a cult around this, complete with “Fernet coins” traded like secret badges.

Amaro in Italian (amer in French) simply means “bitter”. But within that word lies a whole family of herbal liqueurs that Italians have been sipping for centuries. At its core, amaro is a blend of botanicals—roots, barks, flowers, spices—steeped in alcohol and sweetened. It started life as medicine, designed to settle stomachs and aid digestion. 

Over time, distilleries with an eye for business leaned into the cocktail world, with Campari leading the way in the 19th century, and later, flashy bottles like Galliano joining the line-up.

Why It Feels Familiar in Southeast Asia

If you grew up in Southeast Asia, amaro’s bitterness won’t feel alien at all. Most of us have probably drunk bitter concoctions touted as local tonics: jamu, luohanguo (monk fruit tea), and herbal teas of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM).

In fact, some of the bittering herbs found in Italian amaro—Chinese rhubarb, gentian—trace back to the same herbal traditions cultivated in Chinese medicine. So while Italians market amaro’s blend of roots and herbs as “medicinal” aperitif (drunk before a meal to stimulate the appetite), there’s a parallel lineage that would feel very familiar to anyone whose grandmother once brewed up a dark, bitter tonic “for health.”

Are there really health benefits? Who knows, but it’s not uncommon to hear that shots of Jägermeister or Fernet are a good cure for indigestion, therefore Italians traditionally sip amaro neat after dinner. But here in Southeast Asia, it works beautifully in spritzes, highballs, and refreshing cocktails that cut through the heat.

A Beginner’s Field Guide to Amaro

As a category, amari (the pluralised version of amaro) isn’t one single drink—it’s an entire family of herbal liqueurs, from light aperitifs to heavier digestifs, and even modern craft expressions that push the boundaries of tradition.

Some amaro bottles you’ll see at a bar can loosely be categorized into:

Semi-Bitter & Bitter Red Aperitifs (11-25%ABV)

Think refreshing, red liquids often served as spritzes (with the addition of sparkling wine and/or soda). They're made for aperitivo hour, with Italian brands like Aperol (bright orange, low alcohol, slightly sweet) and Campari (bold, bitter) being the most popular. Plenty of cocktails utilize Campari, including the popular Negroni and Malaysia’s own tiki-inspired cocktail, the Junglebird.

European Herbal Bitter Liqueurs (30-40%ABV)

These are the “party shots” many older drinkers may know—sweet, spiced, herbal. The most famous is probably Jägermeister (Germany).

Gentian Liqueurs (15-20%ABV)

Gentian root—an alpine flowering plant with sharp and earthy flavours—finds its way into everything from vermouth to many amaro (as it's the bittering agent). Often pale yellow, Suze and Salers from France are the most commonly known brands of gentian-focused liqueurs.

Fernets (39-50%ABV)

This cult classic category is known for its intense bitterness, and is well-known by bartenders. The best known brand is Fernet-Branca, although other brands (like Luxardo) also produce it. The most popular cocktail to contain Fernet is the Hanky Panky, created by the one and only Ada Coleman (1875–1966), head bartender at London’s Savoy Hotel for 23 years.

Proprietary Amari (the regional classics)

Each Italian region has its own version of amari, often with a signature flavor profile, like:

• Carciofo (artichokes): Cynar (16.5%ABV)

• Cola-like: Amaro Averna (29%ABV), Amaro Lucano, Amaro Montenegro (23%ABV)

• Kina (cinchona bark, like tonic water): Bigallet China-China (40%ABV)

• Minty: Branca Menta (30%ABV)

• Rabarbaro (rhubarb-based): Zucca Rabarbaro (30%ABV)

• Spiced: Amaro di Angostura (from the makers of Angostura bitters) (35%ABV)

Because amari are all about showcasing local herbs, Southeast Asia is in an excellent position to create its own interpretations. We already see this happening with Cambodia’s Mekong Bitter and Vietnam’s Mẩy Amaro Bitters, both of which draw on regional botanicals to craft something distinctly local yet recognizably “amaro.” 

Why Learning About Amaro Matters

A good reason for modern drinkers to learn about amaro is so they can recognize these bottles on cocktail menus and make quick assumptions about the flavor profile. 

For example, spotting Campari in a drink immediately suggests a Negroni-like quality—strong, bittersweet, and citrus-driven. If you see Aperol, you can expect something lighter, with notes of candied orange and often a spritzy, refreshing style. When a cocktail lists Fernet, it’s a signal that the drink will lean towards the bitter, minty, and medicinal edge.

Part of amaro’s appeal in modern cocktail culture is its versatility. A splash of bitter complexity can transform a simple drink. So the next time you see a mysterious bottle with an Italian name behind the bar, don’t be put off. Amaro isn’t just a punishment shot or bartender cult drink. It’s a bridge: between East and West, between medicine and pleasure, between your grandmother’s bitter tea and your new favorite cocktail.

By Lucas Chee (@rumslvt)