Heard Over The Bar: Whisky or Cognac?

"Yeah, I like whiskies. Hennessy is one of my favorite brands," said the guest to my colleague. Though taken aback, he later informed the guest that the brand was a cognac, not a whisky (away from his date, thankfully). 

This kind of interaction is more common than you think, as I have seen my fair share of misunderstandings when it comes to these two spirits. In fact, it is so common that if you type in the phrase "Is cognac" on the Google search bar, one of the autocompletes that shows up is "Is cognac whiskey?". So, how similar are the two?

The Similarities

When we talk about whisky and cognac in the same context, we are referring to brown spirits. Broadly speaking, brown spirits are spirits that have been aged in a wooden barrel or cask. The duration may differ, but the spirit will visibly be "colored" by the cask, hence the "brown" connotation.

Depending on casks, the color obtained may not be strictly brown. If red wine casks were used, the color may range from ruby to mahogany, with older spirits displaying a dark amber hue. Casks used to keep other brown spirits, such as bourbon or rum, can impart a golden hue in the spirit, ranging from light hay yellow to a deep copper tone. These colors may be adjusted by caramel coloring (E150a), although most premium spirit makers avoid using the additive.

Beyond aging in wooden casks, the similarity ends. If based only on the visual cue, I can understand why people can mix up the two. However, some clues can quickly help you differentiate one from the other.

Whisky or Cognac?

Broadly speaking, a whisky is a spirit distilled from a fermented grain mash that is aged in a wooden barrel for a period of time, usually years. The common grains used are barley (malted and raw), corn, rye, and wheat. The grain used depends on the country and is influenced by accessibility.

In most countries, only oak wood casks can be used for aging, though there are exceptions. The minimum ageing time differs, though most countries, such as Scotland and Ireland, state a minimum of three years. As of the time of writing, over 20 countries are producing whiskies, with Scotland, Ireland, America, Canada, and Japan being the top five whisky-producing countries in terms of volume and recognition.

Cognac, on the other hand, is a grape-based spirit made in southwestern France. It can only be made in the Cognac region, which spans the departments (states) of Charente and Charente-Maritime. Only nine specific varieties of grapes are used to make cognac, with Ugni Blanc, Colombard, and Folle Blanche being the commonly used varieties.

Cognac is required to undergo a natural fermentation process and follows strict distillation regulations. The restrictions include the type of pot still used and the distillation period (relative to the harvest period). The regular oak casks used to age cognac are made from oak harvested from Limousin and Tronçais forests. Cognac must be aged for at least two years in oak casks before it can be bottled.

Technicalities aside, when we compare the flavors of both spirits, a pronounced difference can be observed. Cognac tends to exude subtle flavors. These can include orchard fruits such as peach and orange, or floral notes akin to jasmine. As the spirit ages, oaky flavors would emerge, taking the aroma of sandalwood and tobacco leaves. As a side note, I often find cognac to be a subtle and refined drink, though that is not to say the flavors are unremarkable.

In whisky, due to the variety of methods available between regions and countries, flavors may differ vastly. A bourbon from the USA may taste of honey and caramel due to high corn content and the use of American oak. A peated whisky from Islay, Scotland, would display aromas of smoke, soil, and brine due to the malting process and aging location. Whiskies are also allowed to age in a variety of casks, each with its own distinctive character and taste (think sherry casks and rum casks). As such, it is a good rule of thumb to understand where the whisky is from to have an idea of what flavor to expect from the bottle.

Here is the real tip to differentiate the two just by a glance. If the label carries the terms "V.S.", "V.S.O.P.", "Napoleon", or "X.O.", it is usually a cognac. These terms are age statements used in cognac and are regulated by French law. Just remember that the terms are also loosely applicable to other French brandies, so it may not be cognac specifically. 

A good American whiskey would have the label "Straight", denoting the minimum four-year requirement needed (and some other rules that need their own space to explain), and a whisky from Scotland will always be labelled "Scotch", alongside the style (single malt or blended) and sometimes the region (Speyside, Highland, etc.) and its age (12 years, 18 years, etc).

Other Brown Spirits

Besides whisky and cognac, there are other brown spirits that you may encounter. Rum may be the next most common brown spirit after whisky and cognac, with some cocktails requiring gold or dark rum as their ingredients. The spirit, which is made from sugarcane, can be bottled with or without ageing (bottles without ageing are clear). Aged rum is usually referred to as gold or dark rum, depending on its color. There is no general rule governing rum aging, although some do exist, such as in Cuba and Guadeloupe.

Flavor-wise, aged rum is generally considered complex and carries some depth, though it is influenced by the style of the rum producers. For example, Guatemalan rums are known to be subtle but complex, thanks to their solera system ageing. On the contrary, Jamaican rum's funkiness is enhanced by the ageing process, creating a bold and intense style of spirit. How to tell if it is a rum? Look for "Rum", "Ron", or "Rhum" on the label. These terms denote rum in different languages and can give you an idea of the style of rum and possibly its heritage or inspiration.

Then, we have tequila. Made from only blue agave, tequila is known to have earthy and herbaceous flavors. Just like rum, it can be bottled with or without aging. Aged tequilas are labelled with either "Reposado", "Añejo", or "Extra Añejo", depending on the age, and are usually golden in color. Unlike rum, tequila can only be made in five Mexican states, with Jalisco being the heart of tequila production. Aged tequila's flavor is a balance between tequila's vegetal funk and the smooth woody and vanilla flavors of the oak used to age the spirit. A well-aged tequila should be enjoyed like a whisky, which is to be sipped neat or on the rocks. The same applies to tequila's cousin, the rustic mezcal.

Lastly, though uncommon, we do have barrel-aged gin. Unlike London Dry gin, barrel-aged gin can be more complex, presenting nuances from both the botanicals and casks. Different from other spirits mentioned above, gin is rarely aged for a long time, usually resting in a cask for only a couple of months. As such, barrel-aged gins are typically pale yellow, though there are always outliers (I am looking at you, Botanist Cask Aged Gin).

So, Which is Which?

Honestly, my best advice is to always refer to the labels. Most countries strictly regulate their own products, so there will always be certain words that can give you a good hint. Beyond that, I hope I have provided enough guidelines on what to expect when purchasing your drinks.

If all else fails, drop by your local bar and ask the bartenders. Just like my colleague, I am sure they would be happy to guide you on the difference between whisky and cognac. Cheers!

by Chris Chai (The Drinks Archivist)