Regional Spirits of South East Asia: Malaysia

There are far more spirits in the world than the Western classics we’re used to—and Malaysia has a few of its own, too. Beyond gin, whisky, rum, and vodka, some bars pour mezcal, baijiu, or even Swedish aquavit. But Southeast Asia has its own rich spirits culture that’s often overlooked.

In Malaysia, several local spirits reflect the country’s history and agricultural roots. Rice, a staple crop, is the primary base for many of these drinks. Some are made commercially, while others resemble moonshine—produced traditionally and shared within local communities.

Samsu (or Samsoo) and Sam Ching

Samsu, or Sam Ching, is a rice spirit traditionally made by Malaysian Chinese communities. The name comes from the Cantonese terms sam shiu (三烧) and sam zing (三蒸), meaning “thrice burned” and “thrice steamed,” a reference to its triple distillation. The style originated in Guangdong, China, and was likely brought to Southeast Asia by Cantonese merchants or distillers. Samsu is produced by fermenting glutinous rice with rice yeast, then distilling it to concentrate the alcohol.

via Tong Ah

Its production shares similarities with sake. Rice yeast — locally known as jiu bing (酒饼), or “wine cake” — is made from glutinous rice flour combined with yeast, mold, and other microbes that convert rice starch into sugar and then alcohol. The rice undergoes solid-state fermentation, where saccharification and fermentation happen at the same time. Once complete, the result is mijiu, or rice wine which typically has an ABV of 12% to 20%. It is then triple-distilled to raise the alcohol content up to 70% ABV and remove impurities before being diluted for bottling.

Historically, Samsu was considered a working-class drink. Because repeated distillation reduced the importance of the base wine’s quality, it was well suited to moonshiners. Bottled cheaply and typically diluted to between 20% and 40% ABV, it gained a reputation for being harsh on the palate. Modern producers have since improved quality by carefully cutting the distillate and allowing it to rest before bottling.

Today, Samsu is still seen as an affordable alternative to imported spirits. In the Malay language, the term “samsu” can also refer more broadly to moonshine or illicit liquor, though contemporary distillers are working to reposition it for new drinkers and distance it from those associations.

Beyond being bottled as a straight rice spirit, Samsu is also used as a base for local liqueurs, often flavored – like pandan or lychee – to appeal to a younger audience.

Langkau

Langkau is an integral spirit of the Dayak communities in Sarawak, East Malaysia. It is distilled from tuak, a local rice wine. The name is thought to come from the Iban word for “hut,” referencing the small structures where the spirit is traditionally made.

via Honlynn Distillery

Central to both tuak and langkau is ragi, a regional rice yeast cake. Similar to the Chinese jiu bing, ragi is often flavored with local spices such as ginger, cinnamon, anise, and turmeric. The mixture is dried and shaped into small balls for storage, with recipes varying by maker and often passed down through families.

To make langkau, glutinous rice is cooked, cooled, and mixed with crushed ragi before being sealed in ceramic or clay jars to ferment. Sugar may be added to boost alcohol levels. While sticky rice is preferred for its higher starch content, local varieties—including heirloom brown rice—are sometimes used. Fermentation can last anywhere from a few days to several months, with the jars kept in dark, undisturbed spaces. Traditional beliefs hold that knocking the jars, arguing, or swearing nearby can spoil the brew—customs still observed by some older producers.

Once fermented, the tuak may be consumed as-is or distilled into langkau. Distillation is typically done using stainless-steel tanks, while home producers may rely on simple pot-and-wok setups that yield only small, personal-use quantities. Experienced distillers carefully cut the spirit to make it safer and more palatable. Langkau is usually sold at an estimated 30% to 60% ABV, though it is rarely measured precisely.

Both tuak and langkau are available year-round but are most commonly consumed during weddings, funerals, and festivals such as Gawai, the Dayak harvest celebration held in early June. During Gawai, guests are traditionally welcomed with tuak or langkau, and a host’s generosity is often judged by the abundance of food and drink offered.

Montoku and Talak

Montoku and talak are rice spirits made by the Kadazan-Dusun people of Sabah, East Malaysia, with the names often used interchangeably. Similar in style to Sarawak’s langkau, montoku is more commonly distilled from the leftover rice lees of lihing or tapai—local rice wines—rather than directly from rice wine itself.

The Kadazan-Dusun use their own rice yeast, known as sasads, made from glutinous rice flour and a blend of spices. As with other regional yeasts, each maker has a closely guarded recipe passed down through families. Beyond rice wine, sasads is also used to ferment other local wines, including cassava and pineapple.

Rice wine production is closely tied to Kadazan-Dusun ritual practices rooted in the belief in Bambarayon, the spirit said to protect paddy fields and ensure a good harvest. Brewers are expected to observe certain taboos, such as avoiding sour foods before brewing and maintaining a calm, positive state of mind. These practices are believed to directly affect the quality of the final drink.

Different rice wines are produced depending on the rice used. Lihing is made from glutinous rice and filtered before serving, resulting in a clear or amber-colored drink. Tapai uses less starchy rice, such as white or brown rice, and is served with the rice lees. Water is added to compensate for the lower yield, and this style—also known as tumpung—is traditionally drunk through a straw from a ceramic jar.

via Wikipedia

There is no single method for making montoku. Some versions are distilled from the leftover rice of filtered lihing, while others use tapai that has turned sour during fermentation. Less commonly, rice wine is distilled directly. These approaches produce different flavor profiles, though earthy notes reminiscent of rice husk are common, especially when brown rice tapai is used.

While available year-round, montoku is most closely associated with celebrations, particularly Kaamatan, the Kadazan-Dusun harvest festival. Alongside tapai, it is shared communally with guests and traditionally offered in gratitude to the paddy spirit, with hopes for another abundant harvest.